Europe trips

Iceland Westfjords - Long drive for getting from A to B

Our four days in the Westfjords had definitely been a highlight of our trip so far, jam packed with experiences in a remote part of Iceland that had made a deep impression on both of us. We said goodbye to the wonderful people of Hotel Sandafell. But they did not let us go without us both having a piece of the blueberry and rhubarb pie, made from the wild ingredients that we picked and brought back from Hesteyri.

Iceland - The route from Westfjords to the south

After we passed Ísafjörður the road was totally empty again. But following the fjords was very scenic. We kept an eye on the fjord and we saw at least three whales spouting far away. Then a strange sight. We drove around a huge cliff to get to the next fjord, and there was a big cruise ship.

Iceland - Westfjords

Iceland, Westfjords, Northern route, cruise ship in fjord

A little while later we reached a little village called Súðavíkurhreppur. We saw a touring bus, and it seemed there was something to see. We found out that Súðavíkurhreppur is not a tourist stop for its metropolitan character with 229 living souls, but because there is an Arctic Fox center for study and conservation. We had a look and caught some of the explanation by one of the volunteers, but after having been in such quiet places, we felt like part of a (small) crowd, and we continued on our way.

Iceland, Westfjords, Súðavíkurhreppur

Iceland, Westfjords, Arctic Fox Centre

Every corner gave a new stunning view, and there was no end to it.

Iceland, Westfjords

Iceland, northern Westfjords route

Then I saw some movement on the left, near the waterline. Indeed, there was a colony of seals. We stopped and went to have a look. After a while, some other cars stopped too. The seals were quite playful and loud, and it must have been at least 50 or 60 of them.

Iceland, Westfjords, seal colony at Litlibær

Iceland, Westfjords, seal colony at Litlibær

Iceland, Westfjords, seal colony at Litlibær

Iceland, Westfjords, seal colony at Litlibær

Iceland, Westfjords, seal colony at Litlibær

Iceland, Westfjords, seal colony at Litlibær

Iceland, Westfjords, seal colony at Litlibær

By the time more cars stopped, we got on the road again, but not for long. There was a sign about coffee and waffles at a tiny little cottage up the hill, with the name of Litlibær (little farm). It turned out that this place was quite well known to the insiders, and Orbitz website even lists it as one of the quirky places that should not be missed in Iceland. However, the website says so little about it, that it makes you think that Orbitz did indeed miss it. But we didn't. It is a very homey, family run, living room type of coffee and pastry restaurant. The waffles and the home-made jam were great, the coffee hot, strong and very welcome, and the whipped cream like "I shouldn't, but no-one is watching me" And the view from that little room.... fantastic.

The old Litlibaer farmhouse, now a favorite homey pitstop for coffee, waffles, home made berry jam and cream

After a long drive we reached Hólmavík, which I thought from the map was a town. That's not exactly the case: it is a bunch of scattered houses, a gas station, a shop and a Museum for Witchcraft. Due to the fact that we already spent much more time than planned, we skipped the museum.

We had a simple late lunch (fish) near a place called Saurbær, in a hotel (Ljósaland), overlooking a strange affluent of water into a shallow fjord, and the light of the silvery, blueish sun gave very strange light effects on the water and the shrubs. We couldn't really figure out why it reflected like this.

Iceland, Saurbær, on the way back south

Iceland, Saurbær, on the way back south

Iceland, Saurbær, on the way back south, strange blueish sunlight

Finally we reached our guesthouse Árbakki Farmhouse in Reykholt. We discovered that didn't have a restaurant (except for breakfast) but it had a kitchen and fridge with some things to use. We were a bit hungry, and with some basic breakfast thingies from the fridge plus the beer and water that we still had, potato chips and other snacks, we had our most modest dinner of the whole trip. But it was good enough. We were tired.

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula, all for ourself

Iceland Westfjords Route 3 (+ boat to Hesteyri)

Today we drove early to Ísafjörður. From Þingeyri it is about a one hour's drive. It is an interesting drive, with nine kilometers through a one-lane tunnel straight through the mountains. The tunnel requires a decent level of anticipation and civilization, because cars coming from opposite directions cannot pass each other, except at a number os passing bays, where the tunnel is locally broader. These are well indicated. But when you see remote headlights coming your way, you have to use these, and stop if necessary.

Ísafjörður must be the most lively town in the entire Westfjords. It is a the center for outdoor adventures. Several companies organize one-day and longer arrangements like hikes, kayak tours and sailing tours, some even to Greenland and Jan Mayen Island. The total population of Ísafjörður is 3,200, and there are many more facilities, shops and eateries than in the small towns. It also has its own airport with daily flights from Reykjavík.

Several times each year, a cruise ship arrives, and when that happens it is Hayday for the local people, because a herd of 8,000 cruise passengers (more than 2.5 times the local population) will swarm out into the little town, and they want to buy souvenirs, eat, drink, shop more etc.

We went to Ísafjörður, to take a boat which is run by Borea Adventures, a company run by young people, who would drop us at the deserted peninsula of Hesteyri, and pick us up by the end of the afternoon. There was one other couple, who decided to walk a different direction, so we had the whole area, as far as we could look, for ourselves.

There is in fact one main walking path, going from the little jetty all the way up the mountains.

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula, all for ourself

Hesteyri is part of Hornstrandir National Park, and it is home to some wildlife, birds mostly, but even the sheep that you see anywhere in Iceland don't live here anymore. The only land mammal is the Arctic Fox. In the sea around there are seals, and reportedly even whales. A few scattered houses remind of times that a very small group of farmers was living here. Also then, there were no facilities such as telephone or electricity. There was nothing here. Nothing to raise kids in the modern post-war times. By 1948, the people had deserted their houses and moved elsewhere. A last couple stayed on and off at a remote place of Hesteyri, but by 1954 they also had moved to other places.

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula all for ourselves

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula all for ourselves

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula all for ourselves

If you are there for a day, what you do is just walk, and be amazed, and take in the views, pick blueberries, watch for fox (we only found their droppings), listen to the sounds of the nature... The absence of sheep or other mammals and the total absence of pollution mean that you can drink the water from the fast running rivers without any problem.

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula, all for ourself

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula, all for ourself

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula, all for ourself

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula all for ourselves

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula all for ourselves

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula all for ourselves

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula all for ourselves

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula all for ourselves

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula all for ourselves

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula all for ourselves

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula all for ourselves

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula all for ourselves

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula all for ourselves

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri peninsula all for ourselves

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri is literally covered with blueberries

Iceland, Westfjords, Hesteyri water is clean and drinkable straight from the rivers

On our way back, from the boat, we actually did spot whales. Of course we were late with the camera, but there are humpbacks and other whales in the fjord.

Iceland, Westfjords, elephant rock, on the way to Hesteyri peninsula, where we saw whales

Iceland, Westfjords, elephant shaped rock on way back from Hesteyri peninsula

It was an amazing day, and when we came back in Ísafjörður we had a wonderful seafood dinner in reportedly Iceland's best fish restaurant, located in the oldest house of Iceland: Tjöruhúsið (1734). It is a lovely informal buffet style restaurant. The chefs (a family of course) make a variety of fish and shellfish dishes in enormous pans and skillets, and refills of these are plentiful. The people sit all together on long tables. Each evening they put a maximum to the people they let in, so advance reservation is highly recommended. We were there in the low-season, but even then it was full, mostly with locals.

Iceland - Westfjords - Flateyri

Westfjords must be the most peaceful piece of Earth in the most remote corner of Iceland. If you could look 200 km across the water you would see the ice caps of Greenland. Whaling and fishing has always been the major source of income, but in the old days, when October came, things would come very much to a standstill. The hardy people lived from the food they had stocked up, like dried fish and mutton, pickled vegetables, potatoes maybe.

Iceland - Westfjords - Flateyri

In late October 1995, the people of the 300-or-so souls village of Flateyri (one of the remotest places in already remote Westfjords), had hardly seen the first signs of winter. There had been some snow, but not very much yet. But there had been heavy stormwinds for a while, causing damage to electricity and telephone poles and to livestock. Wet and very windy weather was all around. Even for Westfjord standards it was horrible weather.

And then... first an avalanche devastated another small town, Suðavík, killing 14 people. The next day, a huge avalanche of snow, ice and a lot of rock rolled straight into Flateyri town, burying and taking with it the houses to such extent that rescue workers had a hard time to determine where the houses were. The total death toll in Flateyri was 20. Maybe not a big number in absolute terms, but it meant that some 10% or more of the local people perished: men, women and children.

Flateyri Google Satellite to explain avalanche

Nowadays, Flateyri, what is left of it, is an example of a rather advanced protection against avalanches. A construction of concrete dams, more or less in the shape of the letter "A" was completed a few years later to protect the village. It worked, because several avalanches have come down the same path, and passed outside the town to roll into the sea.

Flateyri still gives the impression of a deserted village. But that may well have been because we were there in the off-season. There is a museum and a rather famous bookshop. And it seems popular for tourists who come for sea-fishing. Yet, we were told that people are still moving out, especially young people. The reasons are more economical than safety.

Iceland - Westfjords - Flateyri

Iceland - Westfjords - Flateyri

Iceland - Westfjords - Flateyri

We had lunch there, in a simple restaurant. Just fish and some potato and veggies. Opposite of where we ate, there were the ruins of what apparently used to be a shed for the fish that had been brought in. The walls were full of graffiti, and - as I later found out from a photo I bumped on in the Internet - it must have been a hangout for very bored local youngsters in the previous years, when more ruined walls, with more graffiti were still there. The location is remote and in impressive nature. Suitable for outdoors sports, and they try... But it all looked a bit sad when we were there. Not sure what will come of Flateyri.

Iceland - Westfjords - Flateyri

Iceland - Westfjords - Flateyri

Iceland - Westfjords - Flateyri

Iceland - Westfjords - Flateyri

When we drove back, we passed along a remarkable structure of stakes and a sort of veranda along the road, close by the water. Sheep were roaming in the grass underneath hundreds of fish carcasses that were hanging there to dry in the wind. A dead bird was hung on a pole, to deter living birds to visit the place for a free meal. In some way, and in spite of the sunny weather, it just added to the eeriness of Flateyri and its history.

Iceland Westfjords Route day 2

Admittedly, the Westfjords province is a bit out of the normal tourist route in Iceland, but it is a land full of wonders. The landmass of the peninsula is about the same as the whole country of Slovenia. However, It is remote and life must have been harsh. Over the last 100 years, many people moved to more populated areas. In 1920 still 14.25% of Iceland's population lived here; nowadays this percentage has dropped to 2.3%.

The most important municipality is called Ísafjarðarbær. Let's have a look where Ísafjarðarbær stands in the ranks of global urbanization, and compare it with New York City.

Wikipedia says about New York City: " (...) the largest metropolitan area in the world by urban landmass" (...). So sorry, but that's fake news! New York City's land mass is only 784 km². The "metropole" of Ísafjarðarbær is three times the size New York City with a land mass of 2,379 km² !

On the population count, NYC is still a bit ahead, with a population of 8,537,673 (July 1, 2016). Ísafjarðarbær was home to a whopping 3,608 souls (January 1st, 2017). If I am doing the math correctly, New York City is about 7,500 times more densely populated.

To set things clear, visitors may go to Ísafjarðarbær with slightly different expectations than going to New York.

Also good to know: It is finally safe for all visitors to travel here, even for the Basques. In the 17th century, Basque whalers illegally roamed the waters of the Westfjords, catching "their" whales. The local people were not particularly happy with that. In 1615, one of the Basque whaling ships perished. All 32 of the shipwrecked whalers were killed by the locals. Following this event, the Westfjords had one of the most unusual laws: the ordinance that any Basque person seen in the region should be instantly killed. This law existed for 400 years, and was only repealed in May 2015.

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Thingeyri (Þingeyri)

This little fishermen's village, with a population of 206, was our base during our four days' stay in the Westfjords. It is beautifully located on the fjord Dýrafjörður, and centrally enough to explore most of the area from here, although distances anywhere in the Westfjords can be long.

Here are some pictures of the village and its surroundings.

Iceland, Westfjords, Þingeyri

Iceland, Westfjords, Þingeyri

Iceland, Westfjords, Þingeyri

20160901_124143

Iceland, Westfjords, Þingeyri

Iceland, Westfjords, Þingeyri

Iceland, Westfjords, Þingeyri

Iceland, Westfjords, Þingeyri

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Skrúður Botanical Garden

Believe it or not, in Núpur, just opposite of the fjord from Thingeyri, there’s a prize-winning little botanical garden called Skrúður. It was founded by a teacher, Reverend Sigtryggur Guðlaugsson , over 100 years ago as a teaching garden, mostly focused on growing vegetables. Over the years, it got neglected, but in the 1990's some of the local people took an own initiative to restore it, and amazingly, in 2013 it won the XXIV International Carlo Scarpa Prize for Gardens 2013. The garden is like a walled green oasis in the middle of grim, dark mountain slopes on the back, and the wide fjord in front. It is a location in the middle of nowhere, and you should not expect lush gardens or anything. It looks very unpretentious, but the fact that it is here, in such a harsh climate and barren territory, gives it a unique contrast with the surrounding landscape. The entrance is marked by a whale bones gate. There is a little building in the middle, with a tiny exhibition of the history of the Garden. Entrance is free, but it is definitely worth leaving a little donation in the box.

Iceland, Skrúður botanical garden

Iceland, Westfjords, Botanical garden of Skrudur

Iceland, Westfjords, Botanical garden of Skrudur

Iceland, Westfjords, Botanical garden of Skrudur

Iceland, Westfjords, Botanical garden of Skrudur

Iceland, Westfjords, Botanic Garden of Skrúður

Iceland, Westfjords, Botanic Garden of Skrúður

Iceland, Westfjords, Botanic Garden of Skrúður

Iceland, Westfjords, Botanic Garden of Skrúður

Iceland, Westfjords, Botanic Garden of Skrúður

Iceland, Westfjords, Botanic Garden of Skrúður

Iceland, Westfjords, Botanic Garden of Skrúður

Iceland, Westfjords, Botanic Garden of Skrúður

Iceland, Westfjords, Botanic Garden of Skrúður

Iceland, Westfjords, Botanical garden of Skrudur

Iceland, Westfjords, Botanic Garden of Skrúður

Iceland, Westfjords, Botanical garden of Skrudur

Iceland, Westfjords, Botanical garden of Skrudur

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A Shangri-La with no name, between Þingeyri and Ísafjörður

Driving across the peninsula to Ísafjörður in the north, the road first crossed a dramatic, barren mountain landscape, and then descended into a valley at the end of another fjord, the Önundarfjörður. In bright contrast to the dark mountains and the water of the fjord, there were just a few scattered houses and a little church, standing there brightly in the sun. The only living souls that we saw here, were sheep and birds. There were no signs indicating a village name. The perfect feng-shui tempted us to name this place the Sub-arctic Shangri-La, and we didn't think other words would do justice to describe this place.

Iceland, Westfjords, the Shangri-La at the Önundarfjörður

Iceland, Westfjords, the Shangri-La at the Önundarfjörður

Iceland, Westfjords, the Shangri-La at the Önundarfjörður

Iceland, Westfjords, the Shangri-La at the Önundarfjörður

Iceland, Westfjords, the Shangri-La at the Önundarfjörður

Iceland, Westfjords, the Shangri-La at the Önundarfjörður

Iceland, Westfjords, the Shangri-La at the Önundarfjörður

Iceland, Westfjords, the Shangri-La at the Önundarfjörður

Iceland, Westfjords, the Shangri-La at the Önundarfjörður

(Please come back... there will be more about Westfjords here in the next few days, also pictures showing why we picked Ísafjarðarbær instead of New York this time)

Yesterday we had an intermezzo because we explored a business opportunity in Reykjavík. Amazing how an inflight magazine can sometimes bring up an idea... and a positive reaction plus subsequent meeting, within two days after reaching out. But that is business, we are writing about vacation here

It was time to put our car to the test on a longer distance trip: today we would be heading to the Westfjords (Vestfirðir), the rugged, fjord-indented Northwestern part of Iceland, that is often omitted by tourists. It is facing Denmark Strait, and the part of Iceland facing the East coast of Greenland.

"There's really nothing there", was what we heard a couple of times, discussing our plans with others in the weeks before our trip.
"Well, great", was our reaction. "Then that's even more a reason to go there."

We left early, and took the Ring Road Nr. 1 clockwise, passing north of Reykjavík and heading up to Borgarnes. The weather was friendly, and if we thought we had seen quiet roads already, we would find out we had seen nothing yet. A few very isolated houses with red and blue colored roofs contrasted sharply against the monotony of the scenery. The sharp sunlight made the colors stand like radiant.

The empty road between Reykjavík and Borgarnes

On the Ring Road nr. 1 close to Borgarnes

On the Ring Road nr. 1 close to Borgarnes

On the Ring road, approaching Borgarnes

Some 15 minutes after crossing the bridge over the Hvalfjörður, we saw a roadside motel with cottages, an outdoor center and a restaurant (Laxárbakki). We were not going to have a chance for a coffee anytime soon beyond this point, so we stopped to see if they were open. There was only one car on the parking lot, but yes, they were open, and we even had three people ready to take care of our two cups of coffee and some pastry. It was a bit strange: the restaurant looks like a large canteen, seating easily more than 100 people, but the staff went back in the kitchen and then it was just us. We paid, got back in the car and continued out trip. In the last half hour or so we had seen less than ten cars.

North of Borgarnes the scenery became temporarily a bit more friendly. There were streams and little waterfalls and wetlands. Again, nobody there. We were now on road 54, and well on schedule for the ferry leaving from Stykkishólmur to the Westfjords, so we took a little break to walk around in the swamp.

Wetlands, river and a small set of falls close to Borgarnes

Between Borgarnes and Stykkishólmur

Between Borgarness and Stykkishólmur

The landscape became more spectacular, the more that we drove northward. While we still had seen grasslands and shrubs along the road everywhere in the Southwest, we now found ourselves among fields of lava rock and extinct volcano cones. Some clouds came up, and now it were the rainbows contrasting with the black lava rocks. We wondered how long ago this land had been shaped like this, because nothing was growing on most of it except for some lichens and moss, and we found out later that the lava was from eruptions that happened many centuries ago.

Lava fields and volcanoes, close to Stykkishólmur

Lava fields close to Stykkishólmur

Lava fields close to Stykkishólmur

close to Stykkishólmur

Close to Stykkishólmur

Close to Stykkisholmur

Close to Stykkiyshólmur

Finally we reached Stykkishólmur and converted our reservation confirmation for the boat tickets. We still had time for lunch at the only place that seemed open, a kind of fisherman's pub called Sjávarpakkhúsið (we guess it means something like seafarer's warehouse). The interior was decorated with photos of ancient times, ship's anchors, steering wheels and other expected memorabilia. Fish, chips and an Einstock beer did the job, and it was time to get the car in the queue for the ferry. The little port was colorful, with the sharp Nordic sunlight that we hoped we would have all the time.

Harbor of Stykkishólmur

The port of Stykkishólmur

The ferry "Baldur" is operated by Eimskip ferry company. Driving into the boat is through the bow section that opens upward. It somehow reminded us of old James Bond movies with hostile rockets that "open their mouth" to swallow up American satellites.

The ferry boat to Westfjords

The ferry made a short stop at the island of Flatey, before finishing the crossing of the Breiðafjörður to Brjánslækur, which is on the south side of Westfjords peninsula. It took about 3 hours all together, and was spectacularly beautiful.

On the ferry, leaving the port of Stykkishólmur

On the ferry to Westfjords

On the ferry to Westfjords

On the ferry to the Westfjords

On the ferry to Westfjords

Although windy and cold, the sky was blue and the sun was out. Seeing the port fade out against the backdrop of the mountains, and all the little islands, rock formations and birds made it impossible to sit inside the warm cabin of the ferry. Far away on the specks of land were some lonely little houses, and a lighthouse that almost looked fluorescent orange in the sun.

On the ferry to the Westfjords, close to flatey

Close to Flatey island

Basalt cristalline rocks between Stykkishólmur and Flatey

Flatey island

Close to Flatey island

We left the ferry, and the first ten kilometers or so was a well-paved road. But then we had to turn left, to cross the peninsula over the mountain range to Þingeyri, and we knew that it was a gravel road. We had already been there... on Google Streetview. Because of all the little noises and sounds worn door hinges in our old Sad Car, the road "sounded" very bumpy, but in reality it was not difficult to drive. We would have to drive this road for about 80 kilometers, and in theory that should be doable in just a bit over one hour.

Crossing Westfjords peninsula

Crossing Westfjords peninsula

Westfjords

Gravel road on Westfjords peninsula

Westfjords peninsula

The 80 km long gravel road crossing Westfjords peninsula

But with the totally spectacular scenery, under the setting sun, one should forget that schedule. It is not going to happen. We made stop after stop, to admire the mountains, the fjords, the lakes and the gorgeous Dynjandi waterfall.

Dynjadi Falls on Westfjords peninsula

Crossing Westfjords peninsula, down at sea leval half way

Unbelievable views crossing the Westfjords peninsula

Obstinate black sheep, on our way to Þingeyri

Unbelievable views crossing the Westfjords peninsula

We were about half way, when we realized that we still had to cross the toughest part, the crossing of the Hrafnseyrarheiði pass on our way to Þingeyri, and the sun was already setting. An old car, a mountainous gravel road, no road lights of course, and the occasional sheep getting on the road. No need to tell that we drove very carefully. Finally we saw some road lights deep down from us, before it was totally dark. We did not exactly need any directions when we drove into the little village, because the hotel cannot be missed: it is right across from the little harbor. We realized that the only other place that was open was a small gas station with a convenience shop, but there seemed to be no restaurants open.

Even though we arrived at the hotel well after normal Icelandic dinner time, they specially made us some big bowls of filling lamb soup and rhubarb with blueberry pastry for dessert. It seemed that apart from us there was only one other couple staying there. We were very thankful for the fact that we could still have dinner, but we were quite tired too, so after enjoying the food we went to our room.

Þingeyri Northern lights

Þingeyri Northern lights

Þingeyri Northern lights

Þingeyri, northern lights

Þingeyri, northern lights

We were just about to sleep, when the lady of he reception knocked at our door, and told us to come... quick! Although it was only end of August, there was Northern light. Not much (we had counted on nothing), but we rushed out and sure enough, for the first time in both our lives we did actually see it: first just some greyish shades, then green serpentines and at some point even pink and green! It was difficult to get it on camera, especially with some street lighting around, but we managed to gather our evidence . When it faded away, we finally went back in. What a day it had been!